Meet Kayenta residents Elizabeth Fortney, Rich and Bonnie Hamp, and Ginamarie Foglia, who recently traveled together to Kenya, Africa this past summer trading desert landscapes for sweeping savannas, new cultures, and memories they’ll cherish forever.

What began as neighbors, became friends and travel partners — now storytellers of an unforgettable journey.

Part 1

I had the pleasure of visiting Kenya in 2017 with a group led by my friend, Professional Photographer Robert Winslow. Robert is an amazing landscape, wildlife and nature photographer who has been my mentor in my professional photographic journey. At the time, he had made more than 30 trips to Kenya, and said that our trip would be his last. I was therefore very surprised and thrilled when he contacted me in the fall of 2024, asking if I would like to go back to Kenya with him to celebrate his upcoming 80th birthday. The original plan was for he, I and another friend of his to make the trip. As it turned out, three of my good friends from Kayenta expressed an interest in going, and we were able to make that happen.

I was excited to discover that one of the guides from our 2017 trip, Edwin Selempo, would be joining us for this trip as well. He is an excellent photographer, painter and an expert on African birds. We have stayed in touch since 2017.

One of our early stops was at a Samburu village that I had visited in 2017. The villagers lead very simple lives, without electricity or running water. A religious group had installed a water tank a couple of years ago, but the village lacks the money to fill it. The women of the village would walk a couple miles to the river to fill 5-gallon water tanks, then carry them to the village on their backs. Upon returning home, I determined that the cost to fill the water tank, which provides enough water for the entire village for 5 weeks, is $150. I found a provider that would fill the tank and I am financing that myself. I am currently looking into the possibility of drilling a well. I get photos of each water delivery from a couple of the villagers. It’s such a small thing for me, but it is a huge thing for them.

It was uncharacteristically rainy during our trip, which was a huge advantage. We found that the animals were much more active during the day when it rains, and we were able to witness their playful interactions, disputes and hunting behaviors.

Upon arrival in Kenya, I gave Edwin my “bucket list” of photos that I hoped to get. High on this list was a leopard in a tree with prey. As leopards are quite elusive, Edwin rolled his eyes dramatically and said he would do his best.

We had heard that a leopard had been spotted within an hour of us and we decided to mount a search over the course of the next two or three days. We got fleeting glimpses of it jumping through clearings before disappearing into the underbrush but we were never able to get a shot of it. At some point in day two, Bonnie thought she spotted it high up in the rocks. Looking through my 600 mm telephoto, I could see what looked

like leopard spots for sure. We approached with great stealth, only to find that it was not a leopard, but a MORAC (Motionless Object Resembling a Cat – better known as a spotted rock). Darn!

We photographed a cheetah enjoying a meal, then heard from another guide that a leopard had stolen the cheetah’s dinner. Since cheetahs do not climb trees, Edwin predicted that the leopard would drag the prey, which turned out to be a gazelle, up into the treetops. We started scouring trees and BINGO! There he was. Unfortunately, he had his back to us. We waited for a couple of hours and he finally turned around and posed perfectly for our cameras. If this was the only photo I had taken, I would have come home happy.

This was the trip of a lifetime on many levels. I took over 10,000 photos and got every single photo on my bucket list, thanks to our outstanding guides. I deepened many of the friendships that I had made in Kenya eight years ago, and most importantly, forged a lifelong bond with Bonnie, Rich and Gina. One day, I hope to return to Kenya for a third time.

Part 2

For years, going on safari in Africa had lived on our bucket list as a distant possibly “maybe one day” wish. So, when the opportunity suddenly appeared—unexpected, rare, and far too good to pass up—we didn’t hesitate for a second. We jumped in wholeheartedly, ready for the journey of a lifetime.

We could hardly believe our good fortune: not only were we headed to Africa, but we’d be traveling with two professional photographers who were more than happy to share their expertise (and hopefully help us upgrade our photo skills).

Our small group of six turned out to be the perfect mix—neighbors we adore, friends we love, and brand-new travel companions who quickly felt like old ones. The shared excitement was contagious, and it didn’t take long to realize this adventure would be something truly special.

The trip unfolded over a little more than two weeks, beginning with a few lively days in Nairobi. From there, we set off for the three safari camps on our itinerary. And while our lodging was referred to as “camps,” this was most definitely safari language—they were luxurious canvas retreats with every comfort you could imagine or want. Each day brought new game drives, sweeping landscapes, and remarkable wildlife moments.

We split our group into two vehicles, three people in each. With a full seat to ourselves to enjoy wide-open views from every angle—clear sightlines through both windows and the freedom to stand up through the open-air roof to capture photos and watch the wildlife all around us.

Every stop had something special of its own, and while we could never capture all that we had experienced, these are just a few highlights that truly stood out.

We had been on safari for a day or two when our guide asked Bonnie what she most wanted to see. She told him she was hoping for the big cats, particularly, a male lion with a full mane. We had already seen several prides with their cubs, but hadn’t yet spotted a male.

Almost immediately, our guide glanced ahead and said, “Well, here they come.”

Two male lions emerged from the brush, walking steadily toward us. Even from a distance, they were impressive—powerful and completely at ease in their surroundings. As they came closer, they didn’t change their pace or direction, eventually coming within just a few feet of us.

Both were enormous. One carried a quiet majesty, while the other bore several facial scars – signs of a long and hard life. It was like Simba and Scar had been brought to life. It was an unforgettable experience, silent, close and truly magical.

Both of our guides, Edwin and Stanley, were exceptional—knowledgeable, highly skilled, and genuinely warm. One of them began calling Rich “Cuca,” which we initially assumed was an English nickname inspired by his occasional smart-aleck comments. Later, to Rich’s surprise and deep honor, we learned that in his native language Cuca means “brother.”

At one point, Rich casually mentioned that he’d love to see a baboon. Without a word, our guide steered the Land Cruiser into a small grove of trees and stopped. We exchanged puzzled glances—there seemed to be nothing there at all. Then, within minutes, we were surrounded by a troop of baboons, we estimated it to be at least fifty. We were stunned by our guide’s uncanny knowledge and precision, having placed us squarely in their path. Rich certainly got his wish that day—and then some.

We were equally struck by how unbothered the animals were by our presence. Lions, baboons, and elephants wandered within just feet of the vehicle, indifferent to the tourists watching them from inside. When lions approached especially close to our vehicle for the first time, Bonnie nervously asked whether she should roll up her window. Our guide calmly said no—it would only spoil her photos. If a lion truly wanted to eat her, he explained matter-of-factly and with a mischievous smile, it would simply break the window and eat her.

As the safari came to an end, it was clear that it wasn’t just about the animals we saw, magnificent and amazing as they were. It was the easy rhythm of the days, the thrill of each game drive, and the simple joy of sharing great meals with good friends. Every day brought something new, whether it was a close-up wildlife sighting or a long laugh over dinner. By the time we packed our bags, we realized we were heading home with

full hearts, great memories, and plenty of stories we’ll be telling for years to come.

Part 3

As an infectious disease physician-scientist and LTC, U.S Army Medical Corps, I was stationed in Kenya for 4 years from 2002 - 2005. There, I led several projects in vaccine development, HIV/AIDS prevention and treatment, and several infrastructure expansions, to include the building of a maternal-child health clinic for local Kericho residents.

Twenty years later, I was excited to return when invited by Liz to join their photographic safari. It was wonderful to be back with the gracious Kenyan people, and that connection was instantly forged when engaging with the local Kiswahili dialect at various venues.

I was impressed with progress made with air/ground transportation substructure and overall market growth in the larger cities and towns. More animals were experienced on this 11-day safari than I saw during my entire time in Kenya years ago! This was attributed to the astute guides, the focused “extra eyes” of our travel group, being in Kenya during the Great Migration and having the dedicated time to just enjoy.

The magical moment for me came when a young female elephant approached the Landcruiser where Bonnie, Rich and I were standing with the top open, and the elephant, just about 2 feet away, stood there looking at and smelling them with her trunk. It was like she was connecting with us, and they were connecting with her. Very special! This Kenyan adventure was highlighted by getting to know Liz, Bonnie and Rich better and sharing our meals, experiences and laughs together.