For many in our community, Paulo’s isn’t just a restaurant. It’s part of our routine. After nearly two decades of dining here, we’ve seen it shine and, candidly, go through a stretch where it didn’t quite live up to its potential. Service could be uneven, and the wine dinners sometimes felt inconsistent and slightly overpriced. We always liked Paulo’s, but we also knew it was capable of more.

Mark Hembrey, the restaurant’s general manager, says the recent changes are noticeable. “People who’ve been coming here a while will notice the difference immediately.”

That’s why the improvement feels so clear in Stroll Lake Quivira (https://www.strollmag.com/locations/lake-quivira-ks/). Longtime guests will likely recognize the shift in both consistency and overall polish.

We started with the Old Midland, Paulo’s version of an Old Fashioned, and it set the tone right away. It was smooth, balanced, and easy to enjoy - not too sweet, not too strong. It’s the kind of drink that tells you someone behind the bar knows what they’re doing.

Our server, Oren, reinforced that feeling. Attentive without hovering and friendly without being over the top, everything arrived at just the right pace. Conversation felt easy, and the whole experience was relaxed from start to finish. Service like that makes a difference.

The Friday fish special showed how much attention the kitchen is putting into the details. The Icelandic cod came over pappardelle with a light citrus sauce and microgreens. The email announcing the special mentioned thyme, though the dish actually used basil - which turned out to be a pleasant surprise. The fish was served in tender pieces rather than one big filet, which let the sauce coat everything nicely. It was satisfying without feeling heavy.

The filet mignon showed the same care. It came out medium-rare exactly as ordered, tender and well seasoned, with béarnaise and demi-glace that added flavor without taking over. The Parmesan risotto (we swapped it for mashed potatoes) was creamy, cooked just right, and rich without being too much. Golden tomatoes and green beans added freshness and color to the plate.

“We want guests to feel like they just had dinner at their family’s table.”

The wine selection also stood out. Since it’s an Italian restaurant, we usually go with a Chianti, and this time was no exception. We ordered an Amelia Castellani Chianti with the filet, and it paired really well - strong enough for the steak but smooth enough that it didn’t overpower anything, including the pasta.

Portion sizes hit a nice middle ground. Some dishes are just right for one meal, while others are generous enough for leftovers. Paulo’s definitely isn’t skimpy, and that’s something regulars appreciate.

We finished with one of our longtime favorites: the Italian lemon cake with vanilla cream sauce and fresh berries. It’s bright, citrusy, and satisfying without feeling heavy - and big enough that we happily boxed it up to enjoy later at home with another glass of wine.

Much of the renewed consistency traces back to general manager Mark Hembrey, who joined last June. He says his goal hasn’t been to change Paulo’s, but to fine-tune it. The staff already cared about what they were doing; the focus has been helping that pride show up in the details - things like anticipating guests’ needs and paying attention to timing.

He pointed to the bow tie pasta, the only recipe unchanged in more than 30 years, as the dish that best tells the restaurant’s story. For him, consistency starts with fundamentals.

“If you can execute the basics perfectly, everything else follows.”

His leadership style shows up in lighter ways, too. One of his favorite recent moments was the staff dressing up as him for Halloween. And if a hidden camera followed him during a typical night, he joked it would probably catch him humming as he walks through the dining room.

Neighborhood restaurants earn loyalty not by being flawless, but by caring enough to improve. Paulo’s Italian Kitchen (https://pauloandbill.com) feels like a place that has rediscovered its rhythm - still the familiar favorite locals love, now with renewed polish, energy, and heart.