Celebrate May with the PERFECT Strawberry Shortcake!

By Joan Baumer

Strawberry Shortcake is a dessert trifecta, combining fruity, creamy, and cakey elements in every bite. It is at the top of my mind when I go out to the fields to pick, driving me to select berries that will sweetly blend with whipped cream and a tender biscuit base.

As new hybrids are developed, our strawberry farmers travel for tastings and education, then share the best and brightest varietals with us. Our NC berries get better every year, and that means our desserts will get juicier and sweeter as well.

The star of the shortcake show is clearly the fruit, so here’s a plan for finding the best berries in the triangle and then building a shortcake that will impress your guests, satisfy your sweet tooth, and make you famous:

The first step in building your perfect strawberry shortcake dessert is selecting a variety. This year has been a bit challenging for our growers due to Neopestalotiopsis. This pathogen attacks leaves, fruit and the crown of strawberry plants. With this infestation, the farmers have had to go to “Plan B,” selecting some new varieties and ordering some of their plants directly from California. You are going to find both standard classics and some new strawberries this year, so this rank ordering of the sweetest and juiciest fruit will help you make a selection:
  1. Sweet Charlie: The name says it all! It is one of the softest and sweetest berries. However, it is highly perishable. I recommend using the “day of”. It is unforgettable when teamed with ice cream or whipped cream (therefore, it is a divine choice for strawberry shortcake). 
  2. Monterey: Developed at the University of California and released in 2009, the berries are large, firm, slightly carved and dark red. Known for outstanding flavor and a distinctly sweet aftertaste, your dessert will sparkle without extra sugar.
  3. Camerosa: This firm, wedge-shaped fruit has a deep red color and an intense, vibrant flavor with a balance of acid and sweetness that makes it perfect for jam-making.
  4. Chandler: This firm and orange-red colored berry is not as tart as the Camarosa. I find it to be another excellent choice for fresh eating.
  5. Ruby June: As a newer variety, it is known for its exceptional sweetness and vibrant, deep red color. These strawberries are praised for their larger size and excellent flavor profile, making them a popular choice for both fresh consumption and culinary uses such as smoothies, desserts, and snacks.
  6. Fronteras: This large red fruit has excellent flavor and firmness. The plants themselves are large and high-yielding, making them a popular choice for growers.
  7. Camino Real: Large and delicious with a long shelf life, this is a great choice if you are going to serve your shortcake a few days after picking.

Step number two involves setting a date for picking—the growers are hoping that the season will begin around April 20th and continue through the month of May.

Over the years, I have learned:
• Pick early in the day (fields will be lush and the temperature moderate).
  • • Call in advance for an update on availability and the varietals available that day.
  • • Turn this into a grand adventure for the kids. Some of the farms have horses, homemade ice cream and gift shops that will build memories and just might inspire kitchen assistance. Check out this link to Cary/Apex strawberry farms: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Strawberry+Picking&find_loc=Apex%2C+NC. Based on your berry varietal preference, pick your farm.
Some of my favorite strawberry farms include:
  • • Buckwheat Farm, 2700 Holland Road, Apex, NC 27502, 919.303.0339—Karma Lee has planted 4 different types of strawberry plants this year (Camino Real, Monterey, Ruby June, and Fronteras) that will ripen at different times. Be sure to call in advance for availability. With picnic tables and homemade ice cream, this is also a great spot for a birthday party or special event. 
  • • DJ’s Berry Patch, 1223 Salem Church Road, Apex, NC 27523, 919.600.4020—Offering Sweet Charlie and Camarosa, this is a great choice for “sweet eating” shortcake berries. Located two minutes from downtown Apex, this is a short drive from Lochmere.
  • • Po Hous Farm, 2300 Richardson Road, Apex, NC 27502, 919.524.0991—This family farm focuses on great service and will offer Fronteras this year.

Step number 3 is making sure you “pick like a pro!” If you handle your berries like precious jewels, they will maintain their beautiful taste and texture for days.

  • Growers have taught me to store my strawberries at room temperature in a single layer on a tray (either on your counter or in the garage). Do not pack them tightly because mold can form if the berries are crowded. I have found that Camerosas and Chandlers can sit out for 1-2 days. Sweet Charlies are more perishable and will need refrigeration after 1 day. Refrigerate or freeze any and all berries that you won't use within 2 days.

  • If you want to prolong the berry's lifespan for use in baked goods and other recipes, the refrigerator will become your best bet. When stored properly, strawberries will stay firm and fresh for about a week. 

  • Do not wash your berries before refrigerating (moisture will soften your fruit and encourage mold growth). Keep the green stems on your fresh berries (to protect the interior and prolong shelf life).

  • Keep strawberries very dry and cold. To do this, line a plate, baking sheet or shallow glass bowl with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel. Place your unwashed strawberries on top in a single layer, then cover with a lid or plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use (ideally within seven days). If you notice one of the strawberries going bad or turning moldy, immediately remove it and discard it. Mold spreads easily and quickly, so it’s crucial to keep an eye on your strawberries for any spoilage. You don’t want one bad berry to ruin the whole bunch!

  • If you’re planning to keep your strawberries for more than a week, your best bet is to freeze them. Rinse and thoroughly dry your fruit. Remove the stems, then quarter or thinly slice the berries. Place the strawberries on a parchment paper-lined plate or baking sheet, then freeze until solid, at least 30 minutes. Transfer to a resealable freezer bag and store for up to 3 months. This method will allow you to easily thaw and snack on your in-season strawberries.

Step number 4: For an unforgettable strawberry shortcake, heat up the oven and bake up a batch of Cat Browne’s biscuits. Then whip up some heavy cream and slice up some perfect berries for the best dessert in the world!

Fresh Strawberries with cream on Sweet Biscuits 

Cat Parker’s biscuits use cake flour and a special stacking/cutting technique that gives them a light and tender bite that marries beautifully with the strawberries and cream. 

Ingredients:
  • • 1 cup cake flour (135 grams).
  • • 1 cup all-purpose flour (125 grams).
  • • ¼ cup sugar.
  • • ¼ teaspoon salt.
  • • 1 teaspoon plus ½ teaspoon baking powder.
  • • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into cubes and chilled (European butter preferred).
  • • 1-quart strawberries, washed and sliced.
  • • ¾ cup heavy cream.
  • • 2 egg yolks, hard-boiled and mashed.
  • • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter melted.
  • • 1 cup heavy cream.
  • • 1-2 tablespoons powdered sugar.

Instructions:
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F and line a baking sheet with a Silpat or parchment paper.
2. Combine the flours, ¼ cup sugar, salt, and baking powder in a bowl. Whisk until combined.
3. Add the cold butter, and using a pastry blender, mash the butter into the dry ingredients until the butter is in small chunks (about the size of peas).
4. Whisk the cream and egg yolk together, breaking up any chunks, and add the mixture to the flour. Do not over-mix once it is added to the flour.
5. Place on a lightly floured surface, cut in half, and stack the dough halves on top of each other. Continue cutting and stacking until the dough comes together, working quickly so the butter stays cold.
6. Roll out the dough until it is about 3/4 “ thick. Cut with a 3" biscuit cutter. After cutting, place them close together on the baking sheet towards one corner. Brush with 2 tablespoons of melted butter and sprinkle with a little extra sugar. Bake for 12-15 minutes.
7. Meanwhile, whip cream in a stand mixer or medium bowl with a whisk attachment. Once soft peaks have formed, add powdered sugar until the desired sweetness is obtained. Whisk to incorporate.
8. Once biscuits have cooled, split them open and place some peaches on the bottom half. Top the fruit with whipped cream and the top of the biscuit.
9. Serve immediately.

This recipe is an adaptation of Cat Parker’s sweet biscuits.