Beyond the Cliffs and Castles: Discovering Ireland’s Untold Treasures

From Antarctic hero pubs to hawk landings and champion sheepdogs, Susan Elder uncovers four hidden gems that reveal a different side of the Emerald Isle.

Tom Crean's South Poll Inn

When travelers think of Ireland and planning a trip, whether on their own or with a group, they typically prioritize visiting the popular sites, such as the stunning Cliffs of Moher, the Rock of Cashel, charming seaside towns such as Dingle and Cobh, and Dublin city must-sees such as the Book of Kells, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and museums that document the Great Famine such as EPIC,  and the Jeannie Johnson Tall Ship with the nearby Famine Memorial depicting the emaciated figures of those who died by starvation.  These are all iconic must-sees; however, on my recent trip, we also saw four hidden gems that I highly recommend.

Number One Hidden Gem: Tom Crean’s South Pole Inn
Tom Crean was a member of three major expeditions to Antarctica, including the most famous and ill-fated expedition with Ernest Shackelton on the Endurance.    After retiring from his seafaring career, he returned to Annascaul, Ireland, in County Kerry, married, and never spoke of his experiences in Antarctica again. With his wife, Eileen, he opened a small public house, which he called the South Pole Inn. 

Today, the Inn’s walls are covered with historic photos of Crean’s adventures.  The back room features a large-scale model of one of the lifeboats he used to sail and row through packed ice to Elephant Island seeking rescue for the rest of the Endurance’s stranded crew.  We enjoyed authentic Irish Coffees at the South Pole Inn while perusing the photos and memorabilia. Visit the Inn at Main Street Lower Main Street in Innascaul. +353 66 915 7388.

Number Two Hidden Gem:  The National Irish Stud
Horses have been born and bred on the 800+ acre site that is now the Irish National Stud since 1900. Colonel William Hill Walker, a friend of the British Aristocracy, had a passion for horses.  He also created the beautiful Japanese Gardens adjacent to the property in Kildare.

On my recent trip, we saw some of the World’s finest stallions, including Invincible Spirit, who, upon retirement, sired some of Ireland’s most notable stallions.  Over 250-300 foals are born each year at the Irish Stud between March and May.  Visit the Irish Stud, which is 45 minutes from Dublin and two hours from Waterford, Cork, and Galway. Tully East, Kildare, R51 APSo, +353 45 521 617.

Number Three Hidden Gem:  The National Bird of Prey Centre
The National Bird of Prey Center is an outdoor educational bird refuge where Eagles, Hawks, Falcons, and Owls can be seen on display. It is located on the grounds of Russborough House – worth a visit in and of itself -- in Blessington, County Wicklow, just a 30-minute drive south of Dublin.  After touring the House, we visited the birds.  Not only did I hold and gently pet an Owl, but I also screwed up my courage a little more and had a Hawk land on me.  Visit the National Bird of Prey Centre off the N81, +353 45 857 755.

Number Four Hidden Gem:  Atlantic Sheepdogs Farm
Sheep farming is a major agricultural activity in Ireland, with a significant portion of the sheep population of over 3.7 million found in the western part. We visited Atlantic Sheepdogs Farm and were treated to a herding demonstration by Martin Feeny and his top dog, Ben, who has been the national Irish champion border collie for three years running. Visit Atlantic Sheepdogs, which is just outside the coastal village of Grange in County Sligo, 15 minutes from the town of Sligo or 40 minutes from Donegal.  www.atlanticsheepdogs.ie

And as you embark on your trip to the Emerald Isle, as the Irish say, “May the road rise to meet you, may the wind be at your back, may the sun shine warm upon your face, the rains fall soft upon your fields, and until we meet again, may God hold you in the palm of his hand.”