“Are you kidding?” is a phrase we use in common conversation.

But the term kidding also refers to female goats (does) and the season when they give birth to young goats (kids). And, May is a big month for the kidding season.

For farmers, this is a time for preparing for the newborn kids and ensuring quality milk for the

young goats. Although goats’ lactation season is 300 days, the milk is richest during the kidding season. That rich and tasty milk is also used to make fresh cheese. Therefore, May is a month many cheesemongers see great new goat cheeses available.

The kidding season also brings a fresh growth of flowers and greens that also produces a milk

that is higher in fat and protein content. This milk delivers more intense and distinct flavors to

the goat cheese (chevre) often paired with fresh mint or edible flowers.

Chevre is described as tangy and vibrant, given the young age of the cheese. Very little fat is skimmed out of the cheese and it is rich, moist and creamy. The cheese often tastes more lemony or citrusy with a fluffy texture. The cheese is frequently whiter and with a tangy taste.

Crottin de Chavignol is one of my favorites. This cheese can be hard to find and I have only seen it in fromageries. This is a French cheese from the Loire Valley with protected AOP status. The cheese arrives in a small wheel with a corrugated blue-gray rind. The term crottin means “horse droppings” because of the shape and size. The paste is rich and nutty and pairs well with white whines from Loire. The creamy and smooth Crottin can be served fresh on baguettes or

baked.

Valencay is a popular chevre goat cheese from the Loire Valley. The cheese is produced in a truncated four-sided, pyramid shape that is covered in dark grey vegetable ash. The legend is that Napoleon was served the cheese originally in the shape of a pyramid after his failed Egyptian campaign; he responded by slicing the top of the pyramid with his sword. The creamy cheese is lemony-flavored and becomes more nutty with age. This serves and pairs well with

Sauvignon Blanc and fruits, nuts or honey.

Capriole O’Banon is an outstanding American goat cheese. The goat’s milk is wrapped in bourbon-soaked chestnut leaves. The cheese develops a citrusy, tart flavor with notes of nuts and tannins. The paste exhibits a fluffy texture with a boozy kick. The soft cheese is often served with fruit. This pairs well with Pinot Noir and bourbon.