Last year over dinner at my neighbor Jennifer’s house, she couldn’t stop talking about her long awaited cycling trip to Croatia. She had reserved a spot with Cycling Croatia in May and was planning to go solo. I’d heard about how beautiful Croatia was and said I might be interested in joining. She thought I was joking - after all,   I had never been to Europe and wasn’t exactly a serious cyclist. But I figured, why not? And booked the last available spot on the tour.  

 

Our journey begins in Split, a vibrant town on the Dalmatian Coast of the Adriatic Sea. It is so alive, it immediately gets into your blood. Upon arrival, we put on our walking shoes, trade in our US dollars for Euros, and take a guided tour of Old Town and the heart of the city, Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built in the 4th century AD as the retirement residence for Emperor Diocletian. Within it’s ancient walls lies an entire city - meticulously restored buildings lining narrow cobblestone streets, bustling squares filled with restaurants, shops, a farmers market, the cathedral of St. Domnius, and even a convent.   We spent three days exploring the hilly (and sometimes slippery) streets of Split, averaging 20,0000 steps a day.   Outside the city, we climb the stairway up Marjan Hill hiking trails that wound through pine forests and opened to stunning vistas of the city and nearby islands. After our solo adventures, we moved to Hotel Jupiter in Old Town and met our Cycling Croatia team and the 16 fellow cyclists. After a welcome meeting, we all walked to dinner at our favorite Split restaurant, Bokeria, where I enjoyed the sea bass and Jen savored the lamb shank.

 

Day 1 of riding took us to the Island of Brac, about 2.5 hours and 24 miles of cycling. Known for its limestone quarries, Brac is the source of the characteristic white stone used in Split buildings. Dali, our team leader, called this ride “Purgatory Climb” - a grueling 9.2% grade straight up to 2,033 feet. But, the reward was worth it: breathtaking views all the way down. We lunched by the water in the town of Bol and had an hour to relax before catching the ferry back to Split. Jennifer and a few others braved a swim at Zlatni Rat Beach in the cold, crystal-clear Adriatic waters. That evening we dined al fresco on the promenade, enjoying fresh whole sea bass and a sunset view of the harbor. Too tired for desert at the table, we took it back to Jennifer’s balcony, toasted the day and laughed about our first cycling adventure.

 

The next morning, we packed our bags at 7:10 AM and boarded a two-hour ferry ride to the island of Hvar, known as one of the sunniest places in Europe. Day 2’s ride, was 30.6 miles through hills of lavender, olive groves and quaint villages with scenic views around every curve. The 11.3% grade took us 2,553 feet above sea level, where we stopped for photos at a swing overlooking the island.   After the descent, we lunched in Jelsa at a charming spot called Me and Mrs. Jones. That night we checked into the Amfora Hvar Grand Resort, with panoramic views of the sea and the Paklinski Islands. We walked into the city center for a dinner of perfectly grilled swordfish and sautéed spinach, explored the town’s artsy shops and ended the night with a bottle of wine on our balcony soaking in the view.

 

Day 3 started with a 7:30 AM ride, and  ironically the forecast called for rain. We shortened the ride from 30 to 26 miles in an effort to beat the rain. But 5 miles into the final stretch, the skies open up.  Riding at a high elevation in 40 mile an hour winds and pouring rain felt like cycling in a hurricane. Still, we made it - drenched and freezing, but triumphant. At the restaurant, everyone ordered the hot tomato soup to warm up. I had fresh grilled prawns and Jennifer the black risotto, a Croatian specialty.  When the rain eased, we boarded a private boat for the choppy 1.5 hour ride to Korcula, the birthplace of Venetian explorer Marco Polo.

 

 

We stayed at Hotel Aminess Liburna, right on the shore and just a short walk from Korcula’s Old Town. That evening we met at the city center fountain, walked to dinner and explored the town’s quiet charm.  Day 4’s ride was scenic and  much easier - coastal roads with no large hills. We biked past vineyards and farmlands shouting “Marco!”and “Polo!”to each other.   Our first stop was for coffee and a fun game of Bocce Ball at Bistro Cin-Cin. After a total of 32.7 miles, we lunched at the harbor in Supetar with made-to-order pizza, then biked to the beach for a dip in the warm sea.  That evening, our final group dinner was at a traditional stone tavern for pots of meats and vegetables slow cooked for hours over hot coals and served cafeteria style.

 

Day 5 took us by van to the Peljesac Peninsula, Croatia’s wine country. We visited the Matusko Family Winery for a private tour and tasted so good we bought several bottles to take with us. That day’s ride was the shortest - 16 miles through the vineyards to Ston Bay where the ancient Romans once farmed shellfish.   We feasted on cerviche, fresh mussels and oysters harvested just moments earlier. After a farewell group photo, we said goodbye to our guides and headed by van to our final destination: Dubrovnik.

 

Dubrovnik, made famous by Game of Thrones, draws over 1.5 million visitors annually.  The ancient city walls stretch nearly two kilometers, offering stunning views of the Adriatic and historic Old Town. We met our tour guide Pablo at Orlando’s Column where we learned about the city’s history dating back to 300 AD. We toured the Maritime Museum showcasing Dubrovnik’s seafaring dominance then visited the famous Buza Bar, hidden in the walls and accessible only though a narrow doorway. From a cliffside table, we watched brave swimmers jump cliff off the rocky ledges into the sea.

 

We took a cable car up to a lookout built by Napoleon and later used during the Bosnian War as a last stronghold before Dubrovnik fell to the Serbs in 1991. The site now houses Croatia’s   War History Museum. Back in town, we made one final walk through Old Town, then took a bus to Sunset Beach and the famous Cave Bar. There we sipped their signature MaiTais while watching the waves crash against the rocks. Our last day was spent by the pool at Hotel Rixos, relaxing, reminiscing, and savoring every moment in Croatia. The trip gave us so many unforgettable memories - it’s impossible to choose just one.  We began the trip as neighbors and friends and arrived home soul sisters for life.