Reviving a Local Landmark
Chris Small Brings Peerless Mill Back to Life
Chris Small’s connection to the historic Peerless Mill dates back to his childhood. Now, decades later, he is bringing it back to life.
Chris has lived in the Dayton area his entire life, growing up near Farmersville and attending Jefferson Township schools. He remembers Peerless Mill from an early age, when going out to dinner was a special occasion. “Both my mom and dad worked, and we were able to go out to eat once a week, which was unheard of back then,” Chris recalls.
Chris married his high school sweetheart, and the couple started their family young, raising one son and two daughters. His professional path eventually led him to industrial radiography. After 20 years at Dayton X-Ray, Chris launched American Testing Services, a company that remains on Old Byers Road today. When it was time to retire, Chris transitioned the company to an employee stock ownership plan, giving employees ownership of the business he had built.
Eight years into retirement, Chris still keeps himself plenty busy. He has flipped houses and worked in real estate, and he always finds another project to tackle. He owns a small farm with eight wooded acres where he grows vegetables and jokes that the trees ensure he always has another job waiting. He also has a condo on Siesta Key that he purchased in 2012. “A body in motion stays in motion,” he says.
That philosophy may help explain what happened when friends sent him the listing for the former Peerless Mill. The historic property had most recently operated as Star City Brewing Company for about 13 years. Before that, it had sat vacant for several years after Peerless Mill closed. Chris called his friend Michelle Collins, who had the property listed, and asked to see it. Her response made him laugh. “She said, ‘Chris, you have a perfect life. Don’t do this.’”
He did it anyway. “I’m very glad I did,” he shares. “I couldn’t stand to see it rot.”
Today, Chris is the sole owner and is leading an extensive renovation aimed at honoring the property's history while giving it a future. Star City Brewing remains open during the transition, with the business ultimately becoming Peerless Mill Inn & Brewery. “We’re trying to encompass the old while adding the new,” Chris explains.
Many of the building's recognizable historic features will remain, while renovations are improving accessibility and functionality. Bathrooms have been updated to meet ADA requirements, walls have been removed, and windows in the heritage room will bring in natural light. The main entrance is also being relocated to the First Street side to increase visibility. Chris is even bringing back a water wheel, a nod to the property's history, and plans to place it along the First Street side of the building.
The restaurant is another important part of the vision. Chris hopes to revive some of the dishes and atmosphere people remember from Peerless Mill, including steaks, duck, prime rib, and the restaurant's well-known corn fritters. A casual tavern menu will complement the higher-end offerings, with separate entrances but a natural flow between the spaces.
Plans include an enhanced outdoor area with new seating and tables made from whiskey barrels, as well as Airbnb accommodations. One unit is already complete, with another underway. Chris is also pursuing licensing for a food truck that could serve guests while the permanent kitchen is being completed.
If construction stays on schedule, he hopes to celebrate a grand opening in December. Remarkably, the brewery has remained open throughout most of the work, closing for only one day during a power changeover.
Chris is quick to point out that he's learning the hospitality and brewery business as he goes. He has even brewed alongside brewmaster Chad Klehamer, while his grandson, Tyler, has worked behind the bar. General Manager David Reichert oversees day-to-day operations, while general contractor Tim Soter has coordinated much of the renovation. Chris also credits Chef Arnold Grubb and craftspeople such as James VanDam, whose stonework appears in the restored chimney and new flowerbeds, along with the existing bar and restaurant staff, who have stayed on through the transition.
The project has generated plenty of attention. Chris's daughter, Shawna Ayers, who manages event planning and social media, recently reached hundreds of thousands of people on Facebook in a single week. Chris is thrilled to hear from people who remember Peerless Mill and appreciate seeing the building cared for again.
After a career building businesses, renovating homes, and moving from one project to the next, Chris sees this one differently. “This is more of a sentimental journey,” he says. “We’re trying to bring this back to the community.” For Chris, restoring Peerless Mill Inn & Brewery is a chance to preserve a piece of local history and leave his own legacy.